Showing posts with label topsides. Show all posts
Showing posts with label topsides. Show all posts

Thursday, September 20, 2012

Enter Witty Post Title Here

For anyone who was a friend of Venture Minimalists on Facebook, you are no longer! I've closed the friend account, and created an Org page. You can still follow us on FB by clicking "Like" on our new page!  

https://www.facebook.com/VentureMinimalists1

Also, if interested in more pics than posted in the blog check out our Flickr.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/andrewandsarahtravels/sets/

Someday the pics will be of foreign lands...

In other news, here's our cabin with Awlgrip and non-skid.
           

Decks sanded, fared, and primed for Awlgrip as of Sunday. It looks like a different boat.
           

Wednesday, June 6, 2012

Sub-floor Surprises

The Topsides are complete.





But before we could go to town on the decks, AJ noticed black standing water in the dinette seat drawer compartment. It smelled like the oily bilge water, that is to say, like death.  When we sopped it up, it eventually came back. We found an 1/8" hole in the floor where it was coming up.  Water was trapped somewhere. Not good.



Between the sweeping hull sides and water tank is a flat fiberglassed in subfloor. The water was somewhere between that and the hull.



AJ drilled holes in the subfloor next to the compartment. The released pressure caused more water to come out in the drawer compartment. Wet sand came out of the new holes.



They had to come out. AJ drilled a few holes along the edge and started chiseling. The starboard side was filled with polyester resin.  The resin was glassy smooth as was the inside of the hull, indicating there was never any adhesion.  Polyester resin shrinks and cracks, as you can see. About half down though, the resin was not fully cured, and was a sticky mess to dig out.



The port side, where the mystery bilge water was coming up, was filled with polyester resin, sand, gravel, and water that crept in through the 1/8" hole. Oil likely got in when we had the Mercedes swinging, thus the smell.



Underneath the added subfloor the hull slants downward a couple inches until it meets with the water thank. The water tank lip is glassed to the hull sides. The floor leveling addition was likely added to keep water from pooling  in a crescent next to the tank, and allow it to go to the bilge. We know that didn't work well because of the number of hoses that were running bow to bilge.
Upon closer inspection the water tank is not a tank at all. The inside of the tank is the inside of the hull.  It is sealed off by the lip on top, and a wall built between it and the bilge. The fiberglass tape on that wall is delaminating.  The bumps in the bottom of the tank are glassed in keel bolts. The board in the center with the cut out is coming apart. It provides support for the hull, and keeps the water from sloshing too badly. The paint looks suspicious and the tank lids are chalky oxidizing aluminum.



The water tank is done for. We are going to cut off the lip of the tank, leaving us with nothing but hull sides. It is the only way to be able to access the inside. The Wall between the bilge and tank needs to be removed and replaced since it provides structural support.  Then we get to decide what to for a water tank. We could remake it as it was, get a custom tank made that would fit inside suspended from the floor frame, or use water bladders that expand to fill the space, which is my favorite idea.

While AJ ripped apart the floor, I got started on the decks.  This is the honeycomb we want to take off.  The decks used to be teak, and this is what's underneath from the factory. The black dots are epoxy filled holes left from the teak removal.



The areas of bare fiberglass are raised ripples in the deck. I don't want to sand down the fibgerglass so I have to move on and leave some portions slightly raised. I'll come back for them with a smaller detail sander.




It takes about a half hour to sand down a square foot.  And the vacuum has to be taken to the ground and dumped about out every 20 minutes.

We got 3 scorching days without rain, and rigged a tent with greenhouse shade fabric and pvc pipe. We will use it the fabric to make a boom tent once the mast is back up. It keeps the cabin 10 degrees cooler.



Yesterday we got caught in the rain.  There was a drip, a drop, a thunderclap, then instant down poor. Rolled in in about 30 seconds and drenched everything. Today it's raining, and it's supposed to keep raining till Friday. The bilge is full of water again because everything still leaks. If my boat could just stay dry we could work on fixing that...

Saturday, June 2, 2012

Pretty on the Outside, Rotten to the Core

Robin's got new AwlGrip sides in oyster white; so shiny you can see your face in it.  Just enough buttercream richness to allude to its vintage (age? Decrepitness?), while keeping the viewer wondering if it is truly white without another Florida day-glo-white boat for reference.  The original gel coat was a deep cream, but a bit too rich for me.  This is a nice compromise that won't burn your retinas, nor leave the boat looking too dated.


The waterline stripe and the arrow are taped off, ready to be painted black. I'm glad the bottom paint turned out the deep maroon it is instead of the ferrari red that it was.  Sophisticated curves deserve sophisticated colors.


Here I am getting angry at a cutlass bearing.


The brass inner sleeve of the cutlass bearing was well attached to the housing.  This is after cutting out the rubber sleeve.


A fellow boater in the yard came over and lent a hammer driver.  His parting words were, "Best of luck to you, many men have cried trying to replace a cutlass bearing." A Florida instant deluge washing away my tears in the middle of removal.

The bearing never did come out, so the whole housing came off instead, and went to the prop shop for a professional press.  Probably a better idea anyway since it is about to hold and seal the shaft for our new engine and prop. It is difficult to see here, but the Previous owner used thickened epoxy to fair the hull around the cutlass housing.  Pretty in theory, kinda asinine in practice.


The anchor locker after a little paint scraping by Sarah.  I'm not sure if we can get in there to reach the bow without removing the divider panel.


And also not with those on the ceiling. It's unlikely that we could stay low enough to not cut our scalp open on one of 12 screws.  I'll be cutting them off flush after reinstallation.


The panel is painted plywood with fiberglass and epoxy tabs holding it to the ceiling and floor.  We will have to cut the panel out, coat it in epoxy and glass, and put it back in.  We will also seal the exposed core you can see around the rough cut holes for the hawse pipes in the ceiling.  Not sure how long they have been that way, but the nice thing about teak-cored decks as you can see, is that the core is still dry and still fully laminated...  though the cleat backing blocks aren't.


Here I am removing those damn table stands.  The dinette table has been the most painful thing in our lives for the last year.  From its sharp edges causing deep cuts and bruises on our hip and thighs, to the constant knee bashing on the 3" slides under the table, to shin banging on the stands... Even the bolts resulted in enough busted knuckles that I ended up cutting the heads off with a grinder.  The evil has been exercised.


Free at last, with a little help from my favorite "persuader", the 5 pound sledge with a 9" handle.


What lies beneath the boards that have never been removed.


Vinegar and water is the first and primary cleaning solution.  Why waste expensive non-eco-friendly cleaning chems and breathe toxic fumes when there is just so much crap to get loose?


I'm still shocked at which screws are the hardest to get loose.  So far, every underwater threaded fitting has come free with a couple taps followed by steady pressure.  The smaller screws that hold the interior together are proving to be pure evil, as you saw with the table.  The screws holding this floorboard on are still making me scratch my head.  Most of them were varnished over.

Here is more bulkhead de-lamination. This is the de-lamination around a leaky window, split by the bulkhead. It's the same bulkhead Sarah ripped the bottom out of in the closet.



Bulkhead de-lamination is the major reason for the subfloor rebuild.  You don't want to fix the bulkheads if the floor isn't draining away standing water properly.  Soon the floors will be flowing freely to the bilge, and we can cut and glass in new bulkheads around the cabin.  But first we will seal the decks and install new windows so no water is present to make the newly-cleared trip past the bulkheads to the bilge.

As soon as the black striping is done on the topsides, we are going to hit the decks and abandon the demoralizing, filthy, stifling cabin and spend some time in the fresh air.   It's not supposed to rain Sunday through Tuesday, so we are going to start sanding the paint and honeycomb off the decks with 36 grit and vacuum sanders. Then on to hardware removal/re-installation, chain plate removal, patching the deck, wood treatment, and paint.  Then we'll replace the windows.  Once the decks and cabin are fully sealed, we'll head back down below.
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