Back in Bimini

June 26-28, 2016

We woke up in Nixon's Harbor to windless flats reflecting the clouds. There wasn't even enough disturbance in the surface to obscure the view of the seafloor.

Low wind is terrible for sailing, but glorious for swimming.  By noon, the tidal current arrived generating swells that created velvety emerald luminescent swirls on the otherwise undisturbed surface of the water.

The next day was almost as calm. I sat on deck and watched light rainfall off the coast of Bimini. The ability to see full weather systems move across the sky is my favorite thing about being on a boat. I grew up in a densely forested mountainous region where you can barely see the stars through the trees. I'd never seen rainfall anywhere but above my head until I moved to the level lands and seas of Florida.

With no wind for our sails we went ashore, took a short bus ride across the south island, then took the water taxi to Alice Town on the north island.

We were looking for a liquor store to buy a couple cases of our favorite Bahamian exclusives before we left.  If you told me that a grapefruit beverage was delicious, or even drinkable, I wouldn't believe you. But it's true. It's light and sweet, and perfect to drink in the heat. Sands Pink Radler is brewed by Sands Bahamian Brewery, who, as far as I know, does not export. I already miss it.  Guinness Foreign Extra was formulated over a century ago with extra hops for global export to the Caribbean, Africa, and Asia, which are just about the only places you're likely to find it. Although, I hear that the surge in interest in craft beer in the UK and US has lead to occasional limited releases. So it could be coming to a city near you.

After acquiring the beer and returning to Nixon's Harbor, I went to comb the beach for keepsakes brewed by the sea. The public beach at Nixon's harbor was just as deserted as it was the last time I was there in March. There is definitely no shortage of the private beach experience in the Bahamas. In fact, I'd say it's harder to find company than it is to find an empty beach. There are 700 islands in the Bahamas, of which only 30 are inhabited. That's 670 islands that are almost guaranteed to be void of human life. With only 394,000 people spread across the 30 inhabited islands, chances are still good no one is going to be at a particular beach on any given day.  Even on the inhabited and touristed Island of South Bimini, on June 27th, it was just me and the trilobites.

 

While I was wandering the beach, stirring up the sand looking for fans and shells, I was taken by surprise when I looked down and saw that I had company.  A stingray was right next to my feet and appeared to be looking up at me.  He/She seemed more curious than aggressive so I stayed in the water and went about my business. He/She stayed close and fluttered around me for a while, before finally losing interest and gliding away.

After I found a few sea fans and took in the novelty of being alone in such a beautiful place for the last time, I joined AJ at Mackey's Sandbar to discuss the weather and the Gulf Stream crossing game plan.

Docking at Bimini Sands Marina

After a few days exploring Bimini, we were ready to continue into the Bahamas. We needed to top up on fuel and water before we left, which required a stop at Bimini Sands Marina. While inquiring, we learned that their nightly dock rate is $1.50 per foot. At 36' that's equivalent to a night at the Motel 6. So after riding Robin like a bucking bull for five days we decided to spend a night on a still dock before days of sailing. That also included access to laundry, showers, an infinity pool, the beach, and WiFi.   

It's really peaceful here. In part because there are only about seven boats docked, and many many empty condos. The staff is wonderful, the facilities are pristine, the restaurant is excellent and not too pricey, the ship store has Bimini bread, beer, bilge pumps, bait and $25 quality flip-flips (I'm talking to you Florida's $65 flip-flop “Outlets”). Not that I need flip-flips, I did come prepared.   

My first infinity pool.

We were deliberating on weather to go ESE towards Andros, or ENE towards the Berries. The wind is ESE until Sunday. So, rather than trying to go dead into the wind to Andros or waiting, we're going to the Berries. Today we bumped into an Australian couple who had also been anchored in Nixon's Harbor with us, and had also pulled into the marina for refuge. They are finishing up their season and told us about a creepy abandoned mansion in the Berries inhabited by peacocks. That sealed the deal for me. The other place of interest is Flo's Conch Bar, which is on it's own island, accessible only by water, and dinner is served only if you radio to Flo earlier that day that you're coming. Sounds like a plan. Tomorrow we will take a short sail south down the west side of the Bimini chain to one of the Cat Cays. The following day, we'll sail 75 nautical miles ENE towards Bullocks Harbor in the northern tip of the Berries. We won't be online again until we're out of the Berries and somewhere... with WiFi.  

Bimini Nature Trail

We took a walk down the Bimini Nature Trail on South Bimini island.

There are medicinally beneficial species, like Torchwood, and others that came with the warning: "Do not touch or approach this tree." 

Gumbo-limbo tree. 

 Nature weaves.

Termites

A short detour pops out onto the beach. It was the first sunny warm day since we arrived, so we took advantage, and finally dipped our toes in the ocean.

Coconuts litter the ground in Bimini, and are yours for the taking. After all, they grow on trees.

South Bimini Island

We've spent the last few days anchored in Nixon's Harbor in South Bimini.  It's been super windy since we arrived!

                                                

We dingy in from the anchorage to the docks pictured below. They are near Mackey's Sandbar, one of two restaurants on the island. The other is a breakfast/lunch place at the only marina, Bimini Sands.  

Mackey's Sandbar restaurant. Free Wifi. Great service. Expensive food ($13-$45 a plate). Average priced beer ($4).

The streets are lined with conch shells.

We spent the last few days wandering the beautiful island.

Beautiful beach plants.

Iron shore

Life on iron shores.

Lone coconut tree sapling in the shallows.

Funky tree with blood red wood.

View of Robin from shore

Commercial fishing

Tall ship

There is very little traffic on the island. Walking or biking is easy.  But there is also a "free" bus you can hail on VHF radio channel 68, courtesy of the marina, whether you are a marina guest or not... tips are welcome of course, and if the bus isn't running, a $3 taxi can be hailed on channel 68 as well. Being a British protectorate, they drive on the left. But it can take a while to notice because really, they just drive on whatever side best avoids potholes in the packed sand roads. One rarely passes another vehicle (the occasional car, but usually golf carts) and the speed limit is 25mph so it really doesn't matter.

Views from the roadside.

The Bahamians here are the nicest people I've met. They are quick to say hello with a big smile, and will help you out in any way they can.